A symbol of exoticism and a bohemian lifestyle, over the years “kaftan”, has become the all-purpose term in fashion for any loose-fitting robe or tunic. It is used frequently to describe various types of clothing that are of Middle Eastern and North African origin (the djellaba, abaya, and burnouse, for example). An authentic kaftan is a cut, long robe, with full sleeves, with either an open neck that is fully accessible to the floor or sometimes with buttons; the enormous robe without clearly defined sleeves that is often called the kaftan actually is closer to the abaya.
Kaftan is a Persian word, while the dress is believed to be originating from Ancient Mesopotamia. The Ottoman Sultans from the 14th through the 18th century wore elaborately embellished Kaftans. They were also offered as gifts to high-ranking generals and dignitaries. Kaftans can be made from nearly any fabric. Most kaftans consist of silk, wool, or cotton, and are often tied with untied sashes. Kaftans can be worn by both women and men all over the entire Iranian plateau, across North Africa, and into West Africa. They are typically worn in hot climates its loose-fitting silhouette ensures proper ventilation, and consequently lowers body temperature (though Russians have a similar garment also called a kaftan constructed of fur).
When I was in Europe or North America, authentic kaftans were rarely worn other than by a few travelers and eccentrics, who brought them back from their travels abroad as part of the trend of Orientalism and Turkish-style interiors during this period of the 19th century. It was not until the 1950s and early 1960s that this style of dress began appearing in high fashion when it was adapted by French couturiers–including Christian Dior and Balenciaga–as a new form of a loose-fitting evening gown or a robe over matching trousers. By the year 1966, Vogue described the kaftan as an essential piece of clothing to wear by every member of the elite and also photographed “the beautiful people” in various traditional styles and western variations “Here are the top trendsetting fashions ever invented The luxurious look of seraglio is evident in them. the slumber and relaxation emanate from them. The classic robes from the Near East, they’re now being seen all over the map of modern times, as inspiration for fashion designers and every woman’s finding beauty …”
The kaftan’s silhouette was well-suited to the styles that would follow in the decade to come, being a simple shape that could be beaded or heavily patterned or sleek and minimal (as seen in the styles that were created by Halston during the 70s). Women entertaining at home wore their “kaftan dress,” while it was also the case that more traditional silhouettes were brought into Europe and the United States and Europe by young people who had traveled the nascent “Hippie trail” from North Africa to Afghanistan. The growing popularity among the people of America of the kaftan, ranging from expensive to mass market and imports at a low cost–was due to its connection with exoticism and the wear-anywhere ease of these pieces. In the late 1970s and into the past decade, the kaftan disappeared from most catwalks of high fashion, instead becoming popular with clothes for resorts.
A shorter length that was cut to micro-mini, Tom Ford took the kaftan form to the realm of the sexually edgy in Gucci Spring 1996. Designers who wanted to inject their collections with the “oriental” touch and nostalgia for the 60s realized the versatility of this outfit. Fashion designers such as Temperley and Matthew Williamson have continually reanimated the Kaftan’s Bohemian glamour, while others like Naeem Khan and Elie Saab have taken the kaftan to the red carpet by incorporating intricately beaded and embroidered versions. The graphic and bold silhouette of the kaftan allows designers to put their own spin on it while keeping the same ease of comfort and modesty that makes it so popular with women all over the world.